It looks safe weatherwise to start planting warm weather crops like tomato and peppers. For details on planting tomatoes, check out my blog posting for April 23. Wind protection of some sort can be a life saver for your plants. If you have a permanent garden spot, consider planting a row of low growing shrubs on the prevailing wind side. The shrub row can reduce your air flow from wind 50%. When your plants don't spend all day using their energy to keeping themselves upright or replacing water loss, they can concentrate on growing for you! Be sure your plants are watered in advance of transplanting. If they are already stressed out, allow them to recover several hours or a day before installing them. Do not take plants out of the pot until you are ready to plant, one at a time. Tiny roots start to dry out in 20 seconds so handle quickly.

We will have our transplants & perennials at the Mankato market Sat. 8-12 & Tues and Thurs from 3:30-6. At the field as well see directions on hours on right.

Baked goods at the field today. stop by and try our nearly famous Cinnamon Rolls & breads.

Blossom Drop & plants going to 'seed'

Weather extremes can cause blossom drop, most noticeable on tomato and pepper plants. Nights that are too cold, below 50 degrees and daytime temps over 90 degrees. One day of extremes won't likely result in this, but a couple days can do it. Why does this happen? When the plant is stressed like this, it drops the new blossoms to divert all the plant energy to ripen any existing fruits to complete is only purpose in life.....to produce seeds! When growing conditions improve, new blossoms will appear and you are back in business.

Plants that go to seed quickly, are experiencing the same issue. Usually noticed with leafy plants: spinach, lettuce, radish & cilantro to name a few. When temps get to hot for these 'cool weather' crops, again they fear the end is near and quickly send out there seeds. Works for the plant...not always for us!
Once lettuce and such goes 'to seed,' the flavor becomes bitter and not really edible. So keep up with the grazing!

Can you plant in mud?

Not a good idea. Wait, wait, wait. A couple of days ahead with no rain we hope, and we can all get busy planting. The easiest way to check to see if your soil is ready

• get a handful of soil
• squeeze it in your fist using medium strength
• open your hand, and soil ball should remain (for the most part)
• a gentle tapping with your other hand should break it up
• if your soil is heavy clay, no amount of tapping may break it up.

Planting when too muddy results in hardpacked ridges when it does dry. Walking on wet soil will cause excessive compaction. What is compaction? From previous posts, you may remember that soil is 25% air spaces. These air spaces are where the air exchanges and water flows. Walking or driving on wet soil destroys this capilary system as the weight from above squishes it. Right now, the 'system' is filled with water, so no air is available to plants that are in the ground. Prolonged saturation can cause death of some plants........think........how long can you hold your breath? Same basic principle. Making my case again for 'overwatering.'  Why do I keep 'harping' on that? It continues to be the most common error of the gardener.
General Watering Rules:

• most plants 1-2" per week (include rain in the factor, so get & use a rain gauge!)
• apply this 1-2" in 2 waterings, say 1/2 on Monday then 1/2 on Thursday (if needed) never water more than twice a week, seldom & deeply - never daily! Exception would be maybe 3 times the first week that small transplants are installed.
• when plants are smaller, stay to the 1", as season progresses go to the 2"
• 1st critical watering point - when installing, don't 'hope' for rain
• 2nd critical watering point - when plants are putting out flowers & fruit is starting
• 3rd critical watering point - cut back to 1" when melons/tomato are set & into production as too much water can cause fruits to split, watery fruits, less intense flavor 
• cooler, less windy days - plants use less water
• hotter, windy days they use more
• always scratch the soil surface a bit, is it dry under the surface? The surface will always look dry first, but we are concerned with how wet it is several inches deep.
• more is not better, a plant will do better a little on the dry side vs. too wet.
• plants are finding their own water in the soil, it doesn't all come from you!