Saturday, April 21, 2012

Growing Strawberries

Kelly asked about growing strawberries. So here you go! Yes, tasty and delicious and somewhat easy to grow. One of the biggest problems is the 'plant management.' Baby plants hopping everywhere. You will need insect and bees to pollinate your flowers, so planting flowering herbs or other early blooming plants nearby will help to attract the bees.

Above is a poorly planted strawberry plant, roots are sticking out of the ground. The crown (point where the roots and the top converge) should be level with the soil. Too high roots, dry out, too deep and the crown rots. Water in well, then not again for 2-3 days. Then twice a week if needed, 1-2" per week. Figure rain into the calculation. Plants should be in a full location with good air flow.
Most folks plant June bearing strawberries. Guess when they are ready?  The first year that you plant them is called the establishment year. See those cute blossoms above? You need to pinch all of those off the first year, yup - all of them. The plants need to put all their energy into root and plant development the first year.  The second year, you are free to pick. If planting Day Neutral or Everbearing types, remove the blossoms until the first of July, then let them go and you will get some berries the first year. You can plant both types to extend your season. Personally, I can't get excited about strawberries in September...it's time for squash. Seasonal eater.

You can use a barrel or the strawberry pyramid, but why? Unless you are cramped for space, in a 'garden bed' is always best. Containers tend to dry quickly and also do not offer the same winter protection.

Two types of garden bed planting. The one on the left most common. Move the babies into the row as they shoot out. Keeping them tamed can be a job. If you don't, you won't be able to walk thru in 2 years. Rows should be at least 24-36" apart? Sound excessive? Don't say I didn't warn you  =).

Plastic mulch is normally only used under Day Neutral types that don't throw baby plants. Mulch around your plants with 2" of straw when you plant them, and as they mature keep adding straw for a think mat of 6". If berries touch the soil, they quickly rot and get muddy.  June bearers ripen over a 2-4 week. Pick in the morning when berries are cool. The first berry ripe is the King berry, which is also the largest. Every consecutive berry will be smaller.
Weeds. There are everywhere! This plant above will have a hard time competing for nutrients and water. If your bed looks like this, time to start over,

An annual job after the first year. Don't be scared - just do it! Typically a patch will be good for 4-6 years. Usually they start to decline because of overcrowding and plant diseases. Do not mow down after the first part of Aug. The plants set the buds (future berries) for the next year by then. If you wait to long to mow, you will remove the buds which = no berries.

In November, when the ground is frozen - apply about 4-8" of straw for the winter. Late March - early April, start pulling off layers. Remove 1/3 at a time over a 5-10 day period, acclimating the plants back to the spring weather. The last removal exposing the plants, is best on a cloudy day.
Besides birds pecking at the berries, the foe above is the worst around here. The Sap or Picnic beetle. They love to eat the fruit, mainly the rotting stuff. So try my scrap trap. Place fruit scrap in a throw away container/plate nestled inside a bag. in a day or so they will be all over it (if you have a bunch of them) They are slow movers, pick up the bag, tie shut and throw away. After a few of these, your population will be down. I grew 2 acres of strawberries for several years, I love them but Raspberries are easier!

Friday, April 20, 2012

Early Blight on Tomatoes

 Early Blight.......the scourge of the backyard gardener.  This is one of the most common issues around here of early plant death. 'Early Blight' has specific characteristics, but like 'Late Blight,' is also used as an umbrella term to describe many tomato diseases.
 Most garden diseases are spread the following ways:
  • by human hands (touching diseased plants and then healthy ones)
  • wind (spores traveling by air)
  • water (rain dripping off infected plants and running across the ground to another)
  • insects (carry disease in their mouth parts from one plant to another)

How can we stop this madness? Let me list the ways:
  • start with disease resistant plants
  • don't plant to early, stressed plants are more susceptible
  • give your tomato plants at least a 3x3 square foot area: space =good air circulation
  • good air flow, don't plant against a building or solid fence
  • when watering, apply the water at the base of the plant, keep leaves dry
  • avoid overhead sprinklers
  • use a fungicide - only effective as a preventative
  • wash hands after touching infected plants parts
  • rotating crops when possible
  • when plants are 25% consumed, pull up and get in the trash, not the compost heap or it will be right back next year. Pull up sooner if it is isolated to one plant and you have lots, why wait?
  • never till in plant debris, pull up at the end of the season
Blight on the fruits. Gross. Don't eat these guys or compost, get them in the dumpster. As simple as tomatoes seem to be, they can be one of the most challening due to the many foliar diseases they frequently get. Face it, have your plants ever looked gorgeous or lush in late Aug.?  By then they are usually succumbing to something....look closer and you will see it! More garden questions from my readers would be nice!

Thursday, April 19, 2012

Blueberry reminder

Last night I seen some gorgeous blueberry plants for sale. DON'T DO IT! They will never look that great again once you take them home. For more detailed info on why you should resist buying them, check out my posting on March 29th, just click on 'older posts' at the bottom on the page. This is an ad photo for Top Hat variety of container blueberries. Remember, if it looks 'too good to be true, it probably is.' If this plant is really real and growing in that small pot. it must be on a nutrient rich IV!

Wednesday, April 18, 2012

The Green Lace Wing...a garden friend

Have you ever heard of 'buying' beneficial insect eggs for the garden? Lacewings are one the most successful to release. Ladybugs will fly back home where ever they were raised so forget them. A healthy garden will usually have a good balance of insects but not always. Lacewings are voracious eaters of aphids, up to 100 per day.

 Above are lacewings eggs on pine needles. I have run across these many times, so cool looking. They bob around on this thin strand.
 Above is the larval stage of the lace wing. Looks very similar to the larval stage of the lady bug. Take a good look so you don't kill them......they are the good guys despite how they appear. The clue is vicious pinchers, they don't need those to eat plants but to devour other insects.
 The adult Green Lacewing, much more elegant than it's younger self. At this stage you may not notice them much as they are very camoflagued in the garden. They are native to our area, so start looking for these guys.
Above shows their complete life cycle. Earthworks seldom uses pesticides. Insects are the least of my problems. Weeds. They are my problem! Any type of insecticide, organic or not will likely kill these garden friends.  You can buy insect eggs at www.gardensalive.com

Tuesday, April 17, 2012

Todays "shed" progress.

Yes, it looks bigger in person. =) 
48 x 30, hope that's big enough for at least this year. This will be my first solid shade in the field since I started planting it in 2004, bout time! More importantly a place to sell my stuff and hide my gardening junk. If the weather holds out, it will be done by next Wednesday. Awesome!

Don't be fooled by todays weather!

Gorgeous out today. More ramblingds later today, but just a quick reminder NOT to plant out tomatoes & peppers yet. The soil and night time temps are too cold. WHEN night temps are staying consistently (that means more than one!) above 50 degrees, then you can consider it. Soil temp should be near 70 degrees for warm weather crops. I don't think anywhere in Minnesota is reaching those stats yet!
Okay for cool season crops, even though a little early for them.....hard to know with this strange weather! If you got lots of seed, gamble some!

Sunday, April 15, 2012

Planting has begun.

Yesterday, at Earthworks, 2 plots of sweetcorn got installed, just in time for the rain - yes! We aren't huge sweet corn growers, limited by the acreage! Our corn will be available at our farm location and the St. Peter Coop this year. We grow the Supersweet varieties that are about 28% sugar (yum) crisp & tasty! I also planted lettuce, beets, spinach, radish, kohlrabi, mesclun mix & Swiss chard. I am of course hoping for limited frost in the future, but these are cool weather crops and are more cold tolerant. I have pea plants that are about 4" tall, can't wait! Things continue to be busy!
  •  Planting seed trays with annual flowers and veggies for the field
  •  transplanting from seed trays to 6 packs
  •  digging-dividing-and potting up perennials (by the hundreds...yes)
  •  watering everyone (would they just get their own?)
  •  prepping all my market 'offices' and about 800 laminated market cards
  •  updating records on 2 acres of iris (ouch, who planted all those anyway?)
  •  tilling the field
  •  installing newly arrived woody plants for future bouquet stems (only 160, only?)
  •  taking photos with my 'sock camera'
  •  uncovering about 3,000 potted plants and organizing them alphabetically (who's idea was that?)
I gotta stop the list, getting tired just thinking about all of it, and this is only a partial list. The life of a small farmer....either you gotta love it or you are just crazy!

And, the shed starts going up tomorrow, hurrah! I decided on 'barn red sides,' close as I could get to sienna. The roof color is 'native copper,' very cool. Of course that color is an upgrade...is it a coincident that I always fall for the most expensive stuff?