Growing Strawberries

Kelly asked about growing strawberries. So here you go! Yes, tasty and delicious and somewhat easy to grow. One of the biggest problems is the 'plant management.' Baby plants hopping everywhere. You will need insect and bees to pollinate your flowers, so planting flowering herbs or other early blooming plants nearby will help to attract the bees.

Above is a poorly planted strawberry plant, roots are sticking out of the ground. The crown (point where the roots and the top converge) should be level with the soil. Too high roots, dry out, too deep and the crown rots. Water in well, then not again for 2-3 days. Then twice a week if needed, 1-2" per week. Figure rain into the calculation. Plants should be in a full location with good air flow.

Most folks plant June bearing strawberries. Guess when they are ready?  The first year that you plant them is called the establishment year. See those cute blossoms above? You need to pinch all of those off the first year, yup - all of them. The plants need to put all their energy into root and plant development the first year.  The second year, you are free to pick. If planting Day Neutral or Everbearing types, remove the blossoms until the first of July, then let them go and you will get some berries the first year. You can plant both types to extend your season. Personally, I can't get excited about strawberries in September...it's time for squash. Seasonal eater.

You can use a barrel or the strawberry pyramid, but why? Unless you are cramped for space, in a 'garden bed' is always best. Containers tend to dry quickly and also do not offer the same winter protection.

Two types of garden bed planting. The one on the left most common. Move the babies into the row as they shoot out. Keeping them tamed can be a job. If you don't, you won't be able to walk thru in 2 years. Rows should be at least 24-36" apart? Sound excessive? Don't say I didn't warn you  =).

Plastic mulch is normally only used under Day Neutral types that don't throw baby plants. Mulch around your plants with 2" of straw when you plant them, and as they mature keep adding straw for a think mat of 6". If berries touch the soil, they quickly rot and get muddy.  June bearers ripen over a 2-4 week. Pick in the morning when berries are cool. The first berry ripe is the King berry, which is also the largest. Every consecutive berry will be smaller.

Weeds. There are everywhere! This plant above will have a hard time competing for nutrients and water. If your bed looks like this, time to start over,

An annual job after the first year. Don't be scared - just do it! Typically a patch will be good for 4-6 years. Usually they start to decline because of overcrowding and plant diseases. Do not mow down after the first part of Aug. The plants set the buds (future berries) for the next year by then. If you wait to long to mow, you will remove the buds which = no berries.

In November, when the ground is frozen - apply about 4-8" of straw for the winter. Late March - early April, start pulling off layers. Remove 1/3 at a time over a 5-10 day period, acclimating the plants back to the spring weather. The last removal exposing the plants, is best on a cloudy day.

Besides birds pecking at the berries, the foe above is the worst around here. The Sap or Picnic beetle. They love to eat the fruit, mainly the rotting stuff. So try my scrap trap. Place fruit scrap in a throw away container/plate nestled inside a bag. in a day or so they will be all over it (if you have a bunch of them) They are slow movers, pick up the bag, tie shut and throw away. After a few of these, your population will be down. I grew 2 acres of strawberries for several years, I love them but Raspberries are easier!