- First cut; purpose is to cut through the bark to prevent it from ripping and damaging the tree when the branch falls. (only necessary to cut through the bark in this first step, no deeper)
- Second cut; this removes the bulk of the weight of the branch, so only a stub should remain.
- Third and final cut is to remove the remaining stub. With the bulk of the weight gone, it makes it easier to correctly cut the stub. Your cut should be right outside of the 'branch collar.' The 'branch collar' is a bulge or enlarged area between the tree and where the branch begins, like a 'shoulder' to the tree. Depending on the tree type and age of tree, they may be more obvious on some than others.
Now is a good time to prune, weather is good, total structure of the tree is visible. Never remove too much of the living portions in one growing season, 15-20%. Dead branches are dead, so don't count them in your percentage. Always start with removing the dead/diseased branches first. Then, step back and visually assess what if any needs removal. Next I would remove any branches that are crossing back into the crown (crooked) or large branches that are rubbing on each other and causing damage. Then consider the lower branches, the ones you keep hitting your head on when you mow.
With a hand pruners, trim off all the suckers/watersprouts from the trunk area and vertical young shoots that are sometimes present on large horizontal branches. Finally, when all the troublemakers are out of the way, reassess and see if you need to continue pruning. If your tree is in really bad shape, it may take a couple of years to get it back, a little every year, too much and you can kill it. The leaves make the food for trees....no branches=no leaves=no food.
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