Pruning

Pruning, how, when, where, how much....oh forget it. That is what usually happens. Pruning can be intimidating, because you can literally ruin a tree with a single cut. Never 'top' a tree, which means removing the main center stem (leader). Above is a hydrangea in Feb. before pruning. Below is after pruning. Pruning back hard, close to the ground, will produce longer - straighter stems for the next year. Soft pruning - 6" or so, will produce shorter new growth, with smaller clusters of flowers.

After pruning above. This would be considered a soft or light pruning. Cutting all stems back evenly is called 'heading back,' as was done here.

Coral Bark Willows above. These plants are only 3 years old and were no bigger than a rooted stick when planted. To create a fuller plant, we need to prune back to the ground. The harder you prune back, the more the plant responds with thicker growth.

Coral Bark Willow, pruned hard, all the way back. No, this will not kill the plant. Once this type of plant is as thick as you would like, no further need to prune.

Some basic pruning tips for woody plants:

-the harder back to the ground you prune, the more of a response you should get. This drastic pruning is best in late fall or by March, not during active growing periods.

-evergreen shrubs should be trimmed lightly (no more than 1/3 of new growth at a time) no more than 3 times a year, and only it they need it to shape them

-evergreen trees should be allowed to grow natural, unpruned

-evergreens trees should have branches pruned off the bottom of the tree 1-2 feet off the ground to allow for air flow

-flowering shrubs should be pruned back shortly after (within 2-3 weeks) flowering, regardless of time of year. Using Lilac as an example, flowers in the spring. By late summer, the flower buds for the next spring are already set. So, if you prune lilac in the fall, you will prune next years flower buds off.

I'll address more about tree in the future.