Start from seeds or transplants?

This is a good question! New gardeners tend to start more stuff from transplants, not realizing it's not always best. Logically one would think: "well, if it's already 20" tall and 12 weeks old, how can that not be better?" Here's a few of the reasons:

• the taller the plant, the more damage it can & will get from the wind


• the bigger the plant, the more of an adjustment period it needs, so might just sit there for a couple weeks
• overgrown transplants that have had the roots confined too long may never re-start, this condition is called 'checking.'


• transplants were grown in 'happier' conditions and the stem & leaf tissue grew accordingly. Not thick or tough enough for outdoor conditions and they can rapidly decline.


• transplants should have one week of 'toning' - 'acclimating' - 'hardening off' (whatever you want to call it) before being planted in the garden.

Which veggies should you plant as transplants? Tomato, peppers, eggplant, sweet potatoes, globe onions (sets). These all need a long growing season, although you may harvest some if you plant these from seeds, it won't be much before the season is over.

Which can I do as transplants or seeds? lettuce, broccoli, cauliflower, herbs

Which are best from direct seeding into the garden? Any vine like melons, cukes, squashes, pumpkins, sweet corn, most greens, bean, peas, any root crops like carrot, radish, turnips, rutabaga, & beets.

Is this ALL you need to know?Absolutely not. I would like to encourage you to sign-up for my gardening classes. Click on the link at the right to find all the details.

Do seeds expire?

Seems everything you buy these days has an expiration date on it. Seeds however are required to have on their package the year they are packed for, and that seeds 'germination' rate. What does the germination rate mean? If the germ rate is 80%, that means for every 100 seeds you plant, only 80 are likely to germinate. (what's germinate? starting to grow) So if you want to have 10 tomato transplants and the germ rate is 80%, then plant 12 seeds. If you have had seed for a looonnngg time, try to pre-germ some early in the season to see if they are viable. Worst case scenario is to have old seed, none of which germ, which of course you realize after you already are wanting to plant them outside!

The older the seeds are, the germination rate drops as some seed types can become useless and dead over time. Keeping them in a dark, dry place will help to keep them useable. Store them in a covered container, mice and mealy moths love seeds. I try to make any important notes right on the seed pack rather than in that notebook I'll never find again.

If the seeds that you are directly seeding into the garden come in big packs, take to the garden only what you need. Too often packs can get wet, tipped over, blown over, or the ones in plastic bags get left in the sun and sweat. Ya, some of this I know from experience. I usually bring mine in a ice cream pail, with a lid, and keep it shaded. Never dig in the packets w/muddy fingers unless you are planting the whole pack. If seeds you intend to save have gotten wet, totally dry indoors on paper for several days before packing up. Wet seeds will mold.

Do insects farm?

Yes. Here is a photo of an 'aphid' farm. And who is the farmer? The big ant on the left. Even in our climate you can find this symbiotic relationship going on between these 2. The ants protect the aphids from other insect predators. In exchange they eat the 'honeydew' produced by the aphids.
A nice name for aphid poop. Aphids will typically be found in the topmost growth as they prefer the softer new plant tissue. When you notice them, destroy! They will multiply quickly in hot weather and can disfigure you plants. Around here, I have mostly noticed them on zinnia, but you can find them on a variety of plants. Their color can range from green to grey to black to the reddish color in this photo.

Class Sign-up Ready

Hey Folks,
I know you have been waiting for something to brighten up this long winter....
How about signing up for a variety of Horticulture classes! They are now posted at the St. Peter Community Center web site. The classes that have multiple sessions: each session is different, not a repeat.

Here are the topics:

• Flower Gardening - 3 sessions
• Growing Berries & Tree Fruits - 1 session
• Herbs; growing, using & preserving - 1 session
• Landscape Design & Maintenance - 2 sessions
• Vegetable Gardening - 3 sessions

  Check out their site for the date & cost details.

http://www.stpetercommunityedonline.com/ on the opening page, click on "available classes"

then you will find all of my above listed topics there, click on each one for more details.

ALL REGISTRATION IS WITH THEM, I CANNOT REGISTER YOU!